well that was the idea, to reach lake Natron via
the northern dirt tracks on my old bicycle...
always expect some surprises in Africa of
course. The common route to this remote
lake goes to lake Manyara first. From there,
a track goes north, the same one for the
volcano Lengai. I've used that road a few times.
Then I went once on a bicycle trip with
friends from Monduli, a mountain close
to Arusha, straight to the outskirt of the
lake, off road mostly but we had a truck
to carry all our gear for us. So that was quite
easy. The guide also had a GPS, had done some
recce too...the area is really remote and devoid
of people but maasai people...
This time, I wanted to be alone and try out
that new track going from Longido westbound
to the lake. Some people raised an eyebrow
at that idea... but I'm sure it is reasonably
doable. Good preparation is the key. And
though I've got some experience in biking
here, I tried to be careful and thorough and
I've promised my Mom to be careful since I've
arrived in Tanzania. And now there is Karine
too... anyway here is what a prepared bike
looks like, with a bit of African touch of course.
precious hat, precious water, about 21 lt once I left Longido village. On top
of the bottles you see here, I carry 2 lt on my back, the back panniers are
full of bottles, the front ones are quite full of food. Little place left is for other
things like the sleeping bag, 2 military pots, 1 cup, one spoon, one torch,
some matches, a tiny bag with toothbrush etc, a pair of sandals, and
a spare set of clothes. Add the spare tyre rolled up outside the back
pannier. On the handle, the top bag contains my road book, some sketch
books and all kind of pencils, the hand pump, the little binoculars,
and my camera gear, (3 of them, not reasonable, I know...)
The orange dirty thing is the mattress, containing the tent and
a foldable seat. Under the saddle, another small bag with a puncture kit
and spare tube, a multi-function knife. Ready no?
So Monday morning I left Arusha quite early up to Ngaramtoni,
10 km north of Arusha. From there I hitched a lift on a truck to Longido,
or tried to. Only got as far as Lengijave. This is the main road to
Nairobi which I know quite well by bicycle too and feel no need to do
it again. But no luck so I pushed the remaining 40 km that afternoon.
It took me a few km out of Arusha to get used to the heavy bike, more
than 50kg total. But I got back quickly with her. This bit of the trip
is not the funniest part, hot and dusty, not to mention the dreadful
road work with gravel and soft ground...just for Longido...the real trip
starts from there! Anyway, I met 2 other bikers from California
on their way from Entebbe to Cape Town. Very similar to the one I
did some years back. They cooked me on any advice they could get.
in Longido I gulped 2 fantas, bought more water, some chapati (local
greasy and heavy tortilla or pancake) and left the tarmac.
I felt a circus oddity, surrounded by people, with 'oohs' and 'aahs'
while looking at how I quickly set the bags on the bike with
only one click to attach. For them, this is sci-fi! they'd use straps
of all kind to get unstable and wobbly results.
nice sign? well better enjoy it because this the last one I saw for the lake.
and indications from local people proved wrong (was I surprised? no...)
looking back after a few miles, Mt Longido, 8000 ft or so. Nice little
one to climb. One day round-trip.
I admit I'm getting older and after a hot day of cycling with
heavy gear...so I stopped early by 17h30 and pitched tent.
I will have drunk 5 lt of water today!
Anyway it's dark by 19h.Nice view for camping, no?
Ostriches, mongoose, squirrels, many birds like touracos were the
sightings of the day. I can't describe the feeling to bike on your own and
spot wild animals! I always feel privileged ...
sunrise on Longido, Kili in the background.
detail of Kilimanjaro, 70 or so km away. Visibility always drops quickly
soon after sunrise.
and Mt Meru to the south. With such a viewing and a proper night of
rest, a proper breakfast (chapati with honey, some dried fruit, some
biscuits, powdered juice), I'm ready for the day. Too much wind since
yesterday, I couldn't have lit a fire. No tea, no pasta....
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