Ben Wilhelmi

about Tanzania…

a little break from the “America chapter”.

the long-awaited rains have arrived, finally: the last 3 years have been unusually dry. People were starving here and there, cows dying, crops failing… now with the rains coming in, there will be people dying because of flash floods in ravines, mudslides…. Nothing’s perfect.

the grass in the garden got green within a few days, the landscapes get incredible again with perfect visibility and dramatic skies, the dust gets pinned down by the moisture. The clouds offer a rich variety of grey tones and shapes. I got wet a coupla times on the motorbike. My car gets washed for free and without wasting water. You couldn’t believe how many fucking carwash companies exist in Africa. Even the worst junk car you can imagine has to look clean, nevertheless it is full of dents and nicks, rusted, poorly body refilled and repainted, with bits missing or parts that are not original. Pride has its logic…It drives me nuts in the dry season to see such a waste of water. Not to mention that you could wash your car every hour to keep it clean. Dust falls by the buckets…Our watchmen used to ask us once a week the wash the cars and wouldn’t understand why we refused. I had to threaten to fire my previous gardener if he kept on washing the car while I was away. I finally gathered that our dirty cars were a shame on him. As if he could gather some of our “prestige” with clean cars. I know it’s not going to be politically correct (and I hate the PC concept anyway) but how come 3rd world or developing countries always seem to copy our worst behaviors? One example out of many unfortunately.

The flying gets more interesting too, well mind you, that depends if you’re talking to pilots or passengers. We were flying at night last week, in some decent bad weather. It doesn’t change anything from flying in daytime bad weather of course. The main difference is in case of an engine failure on a single-engine aircraft: you’re most likely to hit the ground within seeing it coming, especially in Africa where lights on the ground are not numerous to say the least. But psychologically flying at night is always scarier. Add a few turbulences, the heavy raindrops on the windshield, the blinding strobe lights reverberating from the wingtips that I had forgot to switch off when we entered the clouds, the ghost red lights inside the aircraft, flying blindly between 2 big mountains (Meru and Kili)…my passengers didn’t need much more to be tense and quiet. One of them said never again.

there has been a “carnage” amongst pilots lately, luckily only on motorbike issue. I had a crash with a taxi 2 months ago, many bruises and only a broken collarbone, which was not bad at all considering I had been ejected above the taxi. Another pilot crashed while riding crazy on dirt tracks, just bruises and his pride bruised too. Then one hit at night of those numerous carts which have no lights of course, luckily the bike took all the damage from the long cart handles. Then one pilot’s little brother visiting here borrowed his motorbike and fell down, badly enough to crack his (European make) helmet but didn’t get injured himself. He got a lot of hammering from his older brother of course, but last week this same older brother was hit and run over(!) by a car. That is the worst of all these 5 accidents because he had survived the crash with only one broken wrist but the faulty driver ran away, crushing his leg, 8 fractures in one bone, crushed his knee as well. His passenger, with a broken leg, had to roll on herself to escape the same fate! Let’s hope that the driver was drunk, otherwise these are some more reasons to despair from the human race…

besides this dull chapter, all is fine here. I am back on my motorbike and mountain bike, more cautious than ever of course. I’m considering head surgery: one extra eye near my ears, and one in the back of my head…maybe some AK 47 mounted on the handle bars could be good deterrent too? 100$ in Northern Kenya…

all is fine as my first Rolleiflex picture has been printed, thanks to Karine’s expertise and her own pose on the picture, and the result is superb. So I’m dead happy with that camera too. The sharpness on a 6x6cm negative is blowing.

leaving Las Vegas

for those who might think I was joking about the non-walking habits of America, by coincidence I’ve just read another excellent book by Bill Bryson, “I’m a Stanger Here Myself”. American himself, he thought he should go back in America after 20 years away when he learnt that 3 million Americans believe they’ve been abducted by aliens! As a writer there was definitely something to write about America. Amongst many weird habits, the non-walking chapter (yes, one whole hilarious chapter) is worth reading. Americans walk in average 350 yards (or 300 m) a day in average!! As always with averages, some do less than the mentioned figure. As he reminded me, streets in most towns or cities are NOT pedestrian friendly. While I liked to walk, to the cops wonder, I indeed found it hard to cross streets: no pedestrian crossing, high pavements, no traffic lights…Try to cross a large avenue full of angry fat drivers in those conditions. I felt like a toreador sometimes. New York, San Francisco are a bit different, but for the rest…I don’t advertise at all on my blog. This is really a free tip, ready to wet yourself?  www.billbrysonbooks.com

 

after a coupla days of good laughing and food, we left Las Vegas. That was 10 years ago. I could visit again as a lot must have changed. Ready for another round of laughters.

 

 

 

 

one the albino tigers from Siegfried and Roy. One of them got mauled if you remember. Bit of a kitsch environment…well what else, this is Vegas after all.

 

 

Harley to be won.

 

trompe-l’oeil.

 

 

on Fremont st

 

Las Vegas at night

 

 

Fremont St, as said yesterday it all started here with typical galore of neon lights. Not copying anything from the rest of the world. Pyramids, New York, Antique Rome, Walt Disney etc came later.

 

 

like this covered gallery in Caesar’s Palace. Fake marble statues, columns…

 

 

Bacchus and nymphs!

 

 

I’m wondering what Caesar and other Roman emperors would think of this use of their culture. Considering their huge ego, they might be pleased in the end. And they’d be quite pleased on another topic: the idea of keeping the lid on people’s brain by giving them food and games was developed in Roman times. Some smart ass, Juvenal if my memory from my Latin classes doesn’t fail me, said “Pane et Circus” and that concept to keep brains numb survived through centuries. Quite a feat. After all television, casinos, theme parks…just do the circus job. As for “Pane”, the western world has never been so flooded by food… I remember I couldn’t find a 1 oz (28gr) pack of chips! Very common in Europe for reasonable eaters. Here considering the norm for gluttony, nothing less than a pound pack on display. No wonder 30% of people are here obese, official figures. Unfortunately I have to admit Europe is now catching up, as some African countries, funny enough against all logical beliefs.

 

 

 

 

 

chapels and other stuff in Las Vegas

OK, marriage is not my thing at all, but I keep on wondering what pushes people to get married in these cheap and quick conditions, far from friends and family. I’m puzzled as well by the huge costs like a 2000$ dress on the other side of the range, the military planning of all of it…

 

 

I mean, c’mon, a drive thru weeding??? WTF? Is that aimed at virgin people, the kind of no-sex-before-wedding dudes? Too eager to finally get real (in a 10 sec squirt I’m afraid)? Dumbfounding…

 

Elvis must have peed around the wall, so Graceland was chosen in retribution?

 

Chrystal…but plastic wedding rings I bet…

 

that’s another thing that drives me nuts. Same crap all over the world. Anything to make business. I remember a “Napoleon slept here” in Waterloo (the real town, in Belgium!), or “Stanley passed under this door” in Tanzania… what’s the value of that? So when I wrote “Elvis had peed here”, I was not pushing that far finally. But nobody seems to have the balls to use “had sex”, “smoked a joint” or anything really interesting.

 

 

that’s the nice thing with a big new vast empty country. No ancient history behind to prevent building large avenues.

 

 

don’t get lured! The sidewalks are only wide and long because the whole avenue is decorated and worth seeing by foot. Sometimes I feel a real pedestrian is a rarity in the US. the country is seldom pedestrian friendly. Here some must have realised that they can indeed survive a 500m walk without a car. In Los Angeles, I had been stopped by cops (fat ones in a big police car) because they were wondering if all was OK with me walking. They had spotted me walking a few blocks and were concerned. Walking!? And they got flabbergasted when I said I indeed possessed a car at a hotel a few miles away but fancied a walk. I would have got a more understanding look if I had been standing on the corner naked with my balls painted purple. God Bless America people believe…some sense of humor if it is the case.

 

 

 

 

below, the original center of Las Vegas, Fremont street, where it all started.  No canopy by then though.  A total different touch, a bit more on a human scale, 

 

 

the other famous cowboy in same style is a bit further. I can’t find the picture anymore.

Las Vegas

 

well I’m not going to describe Las Vegas in 1997. New casinos and hotels, old ones destroyed. A lot must have changed by now. Except the extravagance…

copy of New York, the Pyramids, antique Roma…

 

 

notice the Latin version of Warner Bros.

 

that’s a job nobody can possibly like. I guess they were hoping for fame.

 

 

New York by night.

 

 

some fairy castle. I forgot the name.

 

 

isn’t that hilarious?

 

 

volcano show at or near the Mirage.

we only stayed 2 or 3 days, just gamble 50$ or so for the fun, stayed in some Motel 6 and enjoyed the permanent show. I had more fun looking and having fun at everything, from people to architecture…I wish I had taken picture of people though.

Arizona-Nevada, to Las Vegas

 

caribou? Not sure, I’m not very familar with these things. But it made my day to spot or two while leaving Grand Canyon

 

 

laughing time…we didn’t get in though. Maybe we should have…

 

 

back on Route 66 for a short while.

 

 

 

then the long road in Nevada desert…

 

with funny names here and there. that is nice of the local residents to give themselves silly names like that. It keeps the conversation going in the car on these long trips.

 

 

coming close to Vegas. How much is true in that statement? 1.6 million every day???

 

the suburbs.

and more aerials of the Grand Canyon

 

today I’m normally on my way to Kenya and Uganda for a few days. No access to www out there in Lira. Which is not always a bad thing by the way. A few books, my drawing kit, my cameras and my trainers will keep me busy.

 

anyhow back to the Grand Canyon for a last batch of aerial pictures.

 

 

trees! Pretty unusual on this scenic flight. The Grand Canyon looks more of a big piece of badlands at first sight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

and some forest again. Obviously the rock formation is quite different around here, maybe the altitude as well

 

and snow!

 

look at all the gullies feeding the main river when the snow melts.

Grand Canyon seen from an aircraft

 

quite pricey as I was just out of school and still jobless but it was worth every penny. We boarded a Twin Otter, a mid range twin aircraft for sight seeing above the Grand Canyon.

just after take off.

 

 

the Colorado River

 

 

interesting how the water changes from dark green to light green at this intersection.

 

 

 

 

the place is huge, as far as one can see, it is still part of the Canyon.

 

Obviously the rocks are all quite similar but for the colors. Great palette of colors.

Grand Canyon

 

imagine the first pioneer who reached this rim. He must have said something like “Oh boy…”, and the next follower a bit behind “What…?”

 

 

 

 

 

Colorado river. Notice the raft in the middle of the picture. Nice waters coming ahead!

 

 

 

 

horse or donkey trips were also available.

 

just to give a perspective with this otherwise common picture: look at the trail in the distance. As usual I loved the hike.

Grand Canyon, Arizona.

 

the famous Grand Canyon…nearly wetted my pants getting there. I was so excited. It had been hard to ride on the route 66 and not stop here. But the plan with a friend was to visit here together, back from Los Angeles where I picked her up.

I had been puzzled by American attitude (again) when I discovered that quite a few “old” people living within 100 miles had never visited the place!! C’mon guys, 100 miles that a peeing distance for American standards. In Belgium, you’ve nearly crossed the country…one dude laughed when he noticed I couldn’t understand how this was possible. He said that wars were really having a positive aspect on many US folks: they were forced to travel! High price to pay if you ask me.

the weather was really dull initially. Better shoot in B/W film.

 

 

 

I know it is common to say so but the expanse down there is really vast.

 

we went on hiking on these trails. Great little trips.

 

the mighty Colorado river (that doesn’t always reach the Ocean anymore due the successive droughts around)

 

same river but the rocks are different.

 

no tarmac on these rails, perfect. The top of the southern rim, the most visited if I remember correctly, is a bit damaged by tarmac, resorts and other touristy things.

 

towards sunset, beautiful light.

 

 

the diversity in lighting could be really impressive.

Monument Valley

just back from 3 boring days in Dar es Salaam.

another place for camping and trekking, on horse why not…shooting films, western or others, in this place must have been a kick for actors and movie crew. Put a music from Ennio Morricone on this scenery!

 

 

  

  

 

I can see a cringing face on this picture, straight in the middle.

 

  

 

 

 

bluish tone on the rocks.

 

 

this rock is called the thumb.

 

whereas this one is called The 3 Sisters. 

lake Powell and Monument Valley, Arizona/Utah.

 

leaving Bryce canyon, another wonder on the American soil, lake Powell. The second largest man-made lake in the States after lake Mead the latter created by the Hoover Dam. Though the scenery may be beautiful, one could rightly argue that the lake is man-made and so the water levels that rose after the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam trashed natural features. These pictures taken from a rental boat.

 

 

 

at Glen canyon dam.

 

notice the white shoreline, it shows the different water levels left bathtub rings, used to be much higher than on this picture. It took 17 years for the water to fill up the lake after the dam opening.

 

here below is Monument Valley: many famous western movies, there is even a John Ford point, or more recent movies have been shot here. Imagine John Wayne on his horse. And I also can recognize some sceneries from my old comic strip books.

 

 

 

 

 

   

this piece of rock made think of an elephant.  

Bryce canyon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

some bits of snow remaining, on the right hand side in the shade.

 

I wish I’d go again for a longer period.

 

 

guys, see you in a few days. We’re off to the splendid Tree Tops again, near Tarangire park. This time only to enjoy the place and surroundings and rest, we won’t get into the park. Karine is trashed and deserves the rest. I even think the UN should pay for that therapeutic weekend.

Bryce canyon, in B/W

that was 1997, before digital, a real black’n’white film! A Kodak T Max 100 with an old Minolta SRT 100x. I kept the Minolta X700 for color films

 

 

 

 

trekking in Bryce canyon, Utah

 

-34°4C was the lowest temperature recorded in Bryce canyon. How did these little squirrels survive?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

from Zion park to Bryce canyon, Utah

 

leaving Zion towards Bryce Canyon, a few miles away. Puzzling to get 2 geological formation so different next to each other. Zion towers up, the cliffs are nearly vertical, sometimes like cut off by a giant ax, the colors are ochre red…whereas Bryce, well look below

these pictures are taken between the 2 parks.

 

 

not much to this picture, just a nearly boring transition between 2 wonders.

 

can’t escape this.

 

 

 

then quite all of a sudden, here is it! As opposed to Zion, this is a canyon, which could be easily missed because it doesn’t stick out like a mountain. We had been driving on flat terrain for a while. Most of these features happen below ground level. Quite a different aspect than Zion a few miles away. Technically it is not a canyon but a natural amphitheater.

 

 

as in Zion, a little trek was a must. Another dream place to camp…thought this kind of activity has to be planned. Summers can be a bit hot at 35°C but winter can be really cold…at -34°4 C, the record here!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mother Nature has some artistic skills…

Zion nat’l park, Utah

 

another wonder in America, the park of Zion near the Arizona border.

 

cool bus, functioning apparently, not a static for once.

 

underneath a waterfall.

 

breathtaking vista as usual in those parks. The ochre tones were nice mixed with other colors. Wildlife is abundant in this park.

 

hard to spot on these pictures but there are climbers on the cliffs. The guys lust have a time of their life.

 

 

as in canyon de Chelly, the rains and other leaks have left the same kind of black marks on the rocks.

 

 

 

1997, before digital age, I had bought expensive films for this kind of landscapes and colors, the now defunct Agfa Ultron 50 asa, very saturated, and used with a polarizer. I loved the combination.

Reno, Nevada and lake Tahoe, Nevada/California

 

Reno…I don’t remember much about it. Except a lot of white-haired ladies in bright colorful clothes playing at slot-machines. I had wondered if they were widows. I didn’t stay long anyway. So probably that “little'” from the nickname is what resumes most Reno. Hoped Las Vegas would be more interesting

 

 

 

 

 

 

back towards California, lake Tahoe lies on between the 2 states.

 

Emerald bay. After the dry and hot conditions in Nevada, the cold weather here and the green forests came as a surprise. I appreciated to see snow, in May. We don’t see snow very often in Belgium, never in May anyway. Not a surprise as the lake elevation is about 6200 feet, that is a bit less than 2000m. The peaks stands much higher above 10000 ft for some, and thus colder.

 

Emerald bay, detail.

 

 

 

a sea of clouds below me. I enjoyed the feeling to dominate clouds without being in an airplane. Again forget that in flat Belgium… our hills tower at 2000 ft.

 

and here a patch of snow, at my level. I went in deep to my knees, with a large smile.

 

and before I met lake Natron in Tanzania, I was interested in abstract art offered by mother Nature. Just close ups of bits of bark.

Virginia City and around, Nevada.

it took me a while to cruise from southern California to Nevada, via Calaveras county for the seaplane rating, Redwood park (my first sequoias!) in California still, then Nevada.

 

these farms were still in California, still green and humid…

 

whereas Nevada looked much dryer.

 

   

 

Virginia City, used to be a mining town, very prosperous. The last mine closed a few decades ago. Tourism is now the main business. So architecture and other decorations don’t fail to remind the mining history.

 

 

whether you like it or not, the mansions are quite stylish.

 

 

 

that car reminded me of Route 66. Keep the stuff apparently unkempt to add an ‘authentic’ touch.

 

 

 

Pyramid lake, Nevada, huge trout, pelicans…clear water in the middle of the desert.

 

Joshua Tree park, California

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hoped it was a coyote but probably just a stray dog.

 

 

  

 

 

Anza Borrego desert, southern California

 

Livermore if I’m not mistaken, near Los Angeles. I had 3 cameras and I regret now that I was not more precise in labeling my films…so many windmills, that was in 1997! Americans are the biggest polluters on Earth but I bet they had these windmills before anybody else.

Santa Monica, end of Route 66, I decided to cruise south and have a look at Anza Borrego Desert state park. I guess I chose the place just because of the name that I liked. From a Spanish explorer named Anza and the local bighorn sheep, borrego.I had never heard of it, though it is the second largest state park in the U.S., I didn’t have a guide, just a map. One film got lost in processing…that’s all I’ve got. Lovely place but I couldn’t stay long as I had booked the seaplane lessons up north. Since I’ve got a few friends to visit in California, I might get another chance one day.

 

 

 

one of these endless roads.

 

 

that must have been of the most original banks I’ve ever seen. Wells Fargo, quite a mythical name.

 

  

isn’t it curious that the grizzly is the California state symbol since 1953 but the last wild grizzly was shot in 1922?

 

 

 

US Route 66, Arizona and California

 

a so-called Wild West touch, saloon sexy dancer,wooden construction…

 

 

it gets a bit boring in the end.

 

luckily there are these endless impressive landscapes.

 

here I don’t know if this church was till active but I couldn’t help thinking of Clint Eastwood and Eli Wallach meeting the monk in “the Good, the Bad and the Ugly”.

 

 

caricature to the extreme…

 

entering California soon…

 

what was that movie with Kris Kristofferson and Ernest Bornigne? The “Convoy”. Quite a feat to watch when I was a child. These monster trucks with chrome all over…and now on top I think of my Grandma who has always been fond of Bornigne. Unusual Grandma and that is confirmed by this choice whereas other women that age would have chosen Cary Grant or Paul Newman…

 

 

“Swiss dairy”…? near such a painting I love the contrast! The Italian flag is quite funny too.