Ben Wilhelmi

Along the road, near Mombasa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife, Amboseli, park

 

This hyena got a  lunch and a bath later.

 

Mount Kilimanjaro lies in Tanzania, not in Kenya, but one gets a perfect view from Amboseli park.

 

 

 

A grey-crowned crane.

 

 

These elephants got so close to the car in perfect marching orders and didn’t touch it.

 

Street photography, Nairobi

 

 

Note the “Guerlain Paris” sign above the driver’s door.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife, Amboseli, Kenya

 

A small national park in Kenya north of the Tanzanian border. But the mount Kilimanjaro towers over that little park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aerials in Kenya

Between Nairobi and Juba (South Sudan) to be a bit more specific.

 

 

 

 

Nairobi, street photography

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kenya, random pictures

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Street photography, Nairobi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fashion in Nairobi, street shots

 

Stunning style no??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now I didn’t say it was always great fashion…

 

Wildlife, Amboseli NP, Kenya

 

The beautiful Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nairobi, street photography

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Abandoned airplanes, Lokichoggio

 

Always a sad view for any pilot.

 

What happened to this mythical DC3? They’re still flying around in many places….it still looks good.

 

 

I heard the story that a US pilot came in Loki and wanted to restore this DC6 and another, then have them fly back to the US. But he went to the 2nd Irak war. And the planes are still here….

Lokichoggio, abandoned airplanes, B/W

 

I wonder if that Betsy or the pilot ever forgave the painter…

 

 

 

 

Lokichoggio, wrecked aeroplanes

 

I flew there yesterday with Russian mechanics and engineers who were assigned to salvage parts of an abandoned Antonov 26. Here is “Loki” on final 09. It used to be the busiest humanitarian place before South Soudan got its independence. The last outpost before Sudan. Some words I’ve heard about the past: bonkers!!; It was the weirdest thing;  very fond memories; seriously happening place; the good old days; grizzled pilots; Air America film crew… now the feeling is more like Bagdad café…

Top Secret restaurant! “No photography”?? Some bad habits die hard in Africa.

 

 

Further down the runway, there are a few wrecks including this beautiful mythical DC3. The 1st model came of McDonnell factory in 1935, and many are still flying. What a shame to let that queen rot away.

 

There is this An26, the one we came for. Years of exposure to the elements have removed the shine. Amongst many parts the engines are to be salvaged too…

 

More beauties from the past, from the 40’s, a pair of DC6’s.

 

A Let 410. maybe that lying engine will be reused one day. I just hope I won’t fly with it.

Kenya, on the road, photography

The Equator line, tourists being conned by local youth. The usual change of water swirl in a bowl…

 

Rainy seasons don’t do much to improve the usual main dirt tracks.

 

Tombstone factory, I can’t say I have seen many of them.

 

 

the good old Peugeot 503. rare sighting nowadays. Peugeot has lost most of its business in Africa so event he newer models are rare. Toyota took over.

 

2nd hand clothes in bales. That is a big business here, these guys buy a bale without knowing what’s inside, hoping for the best. Many of these clothes are given by western people to charities which in turn give or sell them in bulk  to middle men in Africa who get richer by selling them in these smaller bags but at a higher price. Another source is unsold items from factories or shops either because there is a glitch or become the new fashion mode made them redundant. Good deals are to be made in African flea markets. I just paid 10 $ for a brand new pair of Dockers cargo pants. I’m still looking for the glitch…

 

 

 

Road side photography in Kenya

 

Size matters….advertising signs get bigger and bigger in Africa.

 

 

 

General shop…?

 

 

 

 

Africa, one thinks bright colors. Add some rains in a slum and even this “Amazing Grace Cafe ” looks duller and more miserable.

 

Ebenezer…I should check what the story is in the Bible. I’ve seen that name and some quotations too on bus wind shields.

Kenya, road side scenes

 

I rarely miss a chance to snap away while travelling…life is never boring on African roads.

notice the chickens.

 

“Wonderful Food Store”! No less….

 

 

 

 

 

is it really wise to nail an ad about a villa with internet and various facilities next to a shoddy stall?

 

The middle class is blossoming in Africa. So are rich people….

 

But poverty still has a future…

Kenya, shooting while driving

 

 

 

 

 

Red Airtel competing with Coca Cola and Ferrari….

 

I only noticed the Femiplan logo while editing the picture. I would have liked to know more about this station. Family planning is much needed in Africa, as anywhere else too.

 

 

“Galaxy Saloon”….

Kenya, photography while driving

 

This is not Rwanda, so even though many people carry machetes there is no reason to raise concerns. This is a normal way of life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“fresh from the field”

Kenya, road side scenes

 

most of these pictures of  Kenyan road life could have been shot in Tanzania by the way. The differences are minimal.

 

 

same motorbikes, same miserable shops, same fruit or vegetable stalls….

“Macadamia People”….no idea what it means.

 

 

 

so many signs so cluttered, motorists juts pass by and miss most if not all of them.

 

 

Kenya, road side life, photography

 

 

 

 

 

Reading business names can be hilarious. “Comet Cyber”, “Best Shine”…modesty does not prevail around.

 

 

 

 

how does one make a living selling a few grilled corns a day?

Kenya, pictures while driving

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

on the road in Kenya, photography

 

Empty spaces don’t stay unoccupied for long. This kind of clay artifacts are common…

 

Motorbike taxi rider trying his luck with the 2 girls.

 

tuktuks appeared a few ago. Not as successful as the cheap Indian or Chinese motorbikes but creeping in steadily.

 

shops side by side.

 

a grocery.

 

Karine declined to spend the night here. C’mon, latest movies! Ok Ok I didn’t insist very muh heehee.

 

Bright colors are everywhere.

 

Namelok is a typical Masai female first name.

 

Grocery and hotel, what else does one need?

 

More shops.

Amboseli NP and Kilimanjaro, infrared film

 

 

 

 

 

shot with Rolleiflex on Kodak Aerochrome EIR film.

Nairobi, street photography

Clean water…I hope these business people are more honest than some in Tanzania which pump the water directly from  rivers…

 

Blues, rock, gospel…?

 

The elections are close, ads are all over especially where they shouldn’t be.

 

 

 

The bus stands have been entirely plastered by political posters.

 

Newspaper distributors.

 

Politics and religion…the usual fishy games here too…

 

Yup Guinness is quite popular in Africa.

 

Tombstone business.

Kenya, roadside photography

 

a typical large painted advertisement.

 

Elections in Kenya were violent and ugly in 2007. Let’s hope for some improvement and restraint for the next one in March. In the meantime, these political ads are to be seen on every empty space.

 

Typical scene, and sometimes there is a passenger sitting on top of the load.

 

A venerable and rare Peugeot 404. They used to be so common across Africa...

 

Political activity on the road. In case of heavy braking or accident, these guys will have about one second to learn to land…

 

 

Motorbike taxi. Masai men feel naked without their legendary stick.

 

typical shanty huts stuck side by side. Usually they are about business.

 

Masai man in sport shoes.

 

derelict fruit and vegetable stalls.

Kenya, photography while driving

 

well in this case Karine was driving but it happens I drive and shoot.

Roadsides in Africa are very visual. Colorful, busy, messy, full of life and details.

 

Pupils tend to be seen everywhere but in school, unfortunately.

 

Masai men shopping.

 

This shop reminded a bit of an American road in the west.

 

Quite often, motorists have to share the road with cattle. A risky business sometimes.

 

Coca Cola is nearly everywhere in Africa. If one doesn't spot a Coke sign, this is really the middle of nowhere.

 

In Namanga, a border post with Tanzania, Miracle Hotel or New Emirates Hotel…it seems the new management didn’t invest much. I have the address for the daredevils…

 

Rafiki means friend in swahili. Namanga is what one could describe as a shithole but I find it very photographer friendly.

 

 

I wished the shop had been open for a quick look inside.

Arusha-Nairobi, photography on the road

 

Karine was driving, I was shooting the scenery.

Colors!

 

 

I have to this day never seen a Masai man or boy without a stick! I bet they keep it in bed too.

 

A cluster of shops, quite new and freshly painted.

 

Trousers from the flower power era?

 

Water transport.

 

Sign artist. Quality varies wildly to say the least…

 

KFC in Nairobi. There is none in Belgium…

 

 

giant ads are unfortunately sprouting all over. And too bad if your flat had a nice view… Urbanism is still a funny concept around.

Amboseli nat'l park, photography

 

Amboseli is a lovely little park at the foot of Kilimanjaro (which is in Tanzania by the way, not in Kenya as claimed by some crooks). The wildlife out there is made of the usual suspects but on a good day the view of nearby Kili is breathtaking. These minibuses are numerous and some of these drivers are totally clueless: they leave the engine running while watching wildlife a few meters away!! You’d never see that in Tanzania.

6 am, time to leave camp and enjoy the early light in the mist.

 

That’s what I mean with a nearby Kilimanjaro. The atmospheric veil helped to catch the orange light on the peak and the clouds.

 

This is a close up view of the secondary peak

 

These guys, grey-headed kingfishers, were quite easy to spot and come close, like 5 meters away.

 

the area is made of swamps and it is quite easy to include animals in line with Kili. Providing the conditions are good of course.

 

 

Cattle egrets and elephants live in good company.

photography on the Kenyan roads

 

After a venerable Peugeot 504, we spotted this hardly younger Datsun. Notice the thin spare wheel. Those cops are definitely not equipped for car chases…

 

Always keep your eyes open when crossing a village. There always details to spot, like bright fresh colors on shanty buildings.

 

Pupils on their way or away to school. It’s hard to say which sometimes as pupils can be spotted wandering any time of the day. Same situation in Tanzania.

 

Masai on the phone in front of a cellphone network advertisement.

 

Cows, donkeys, goats are numerous on the roads. Sometimes they’re just grazing and one can’t help wondering why they seem to choose the very edge of a highway to do so whereas the infinite grassy savannah is just there…

 

An alluring restaurant.

 

Another die-hard Peugeot 504. I’m always amazed that the French carmaker managed to lose its African market to Toyota when they had such great cars.

 

A discreet butchery, no sign but the meat is obviously hanging on a hook, in the sun attracting flies. A common scenery…

 

I can’t help wondering what can be so extreme while having a haircut in this hair salon.

 

A ‘mishkaki’, nickname for these overloaded motorbike taxis. Or bodaboda in local language.

As said before the African roads are rarely boring.

Roadside photography, between Arusha and Nairobi

 

The road used to be awful but has just been resurfaced last year. So the trip is now smooth, for now as cracks on the surface already appear. Thanks to Chinese quality… The scenery is pleasant but the real show happens nearby villages and towns. I always check the names on shops, bars, hotels etc. Originality and the no fear no shame concept are common. I’m sure diplomats would love this place.

Karine loves to drive herself, so I just keep my camera handy and snaps away.

 

The Kenyan cops could be nicknamed Starsky and Hutch...for the age of their cars. This is a picture from last week but that venerable Peugeot 504, station-wagon, has been on the roads for much longer. Kenya used to manufacture various Peugeot models under license after Peugeot stopped the by-then current model. So this one must be from 1980?

 

How many 20 liter containers on this cart? This man doesn’t need a gym membership.

 

A mentally challenged woman, she was behaving strange on that main road.

 

Elections in Kenya are planned for the 4th March. Let’s hope we will not witness the same violence as in 2007.

 

 

Masai man in white sneakers watching life goes by.

 

At the border post, Namanga, that’s where the show is. Seriously I could spend hours there just watching. Various business places, various people like Somalis, a lot of activity, bright colors hardly cover the poverty. I’ll make a special post on Namanga soon.

More names: why beehive for this highly 'hygienic' butchery? Another common scenery: those carcasses hanging on a hook. We also were so sad to miss a chance to sip a cup of tea in that lovely tea room.

 

We spotted 2 of these cyclist within a week, on the same road. I was a bit drooling, remembering my own bicycle trip from Arusha to Cape Town some 10 years ago. My bike looked like this one but I was not sporting the same funny outfit. The face was entirely covered too, maybe a Japanese biker, but we think it was a she. And alone on the road.

The second biker was cycling on a dirt track towards Amboseli park, very isolated so we stopped for a chat, gave him water, a newer map of East Africa, some fruit. We were heading to a nice lodge, he was planning to camp under the starry night. We could give away our reserve.

wildlife photography, Amboseli, Kenya

 

Kilimanjaro, early morning, dust and elephants. Reminder: the summit lies in Tanzania.

 

Grey-crowned crane (grue couronnée en français)

 

Interesting shadow.

 

 

 

Agama lizard (un aguame)…

The same but cropped.

 

A grey-headed kingfisher with ots fighting prey. (un martin-pêcheur)

 

White storks (cigognes blanches)

it always looks like a messy take off but there are never any crashes.

Kilimanjaro and wildlife, seen from Amboseli

 

Karine and I went for a few days in Nairobi and Amboseli National Park. A tiny park on the edge of Mt Kilimanjaro which allows a close view of the Tanzanian peak. Some Kenyans funnily claim the peak is in Kenya. Just grab a map and though the colonial Brits screwed up many borderlines when they carved up their colonies, the peak lies in Tanzania.

A tiny park, not the wildest of all parks, some bad guides/drivers but we enjoyed many wildlife actions on top of the landscapes. Kilimanjaro is a shy mountain but we managed some good sighting over the 3 days.

 

A sunrise, a spectacular viewing even with the slight atmospheric veil.

This is the secondary peak, sometimes showing snow after a storm, like the daily storms these days.

 

A bit later, the orange hue disappeared.

 

The park is quite flat, made of swamps mostly. So Karine and I were keen to include animals in that glorious landscape.

 

 

 

 

A superb last minute ray of light at sunset.

 

Another sunrise. One of those (many) days when I’m glad I have got that great Nikon lens, a super wide 12-24mm, here at 12mm.

 

Elephants in the dust.

photography while driving in Kenya

 

not the same style but driving in Africa or in America offer the same visual happiness for photographers.

 

notice the blue bucket below the Equator sign. Local crooks will trick tourists to prove that water swirls in opposite ways just a few meters north or south of the Equator.

 

casually holding an AK 47 for a road check…

photography while driving, Kenya

 

 

I try to never miss a chance to record something. Sometimes it’s not interesting after all or it will get a documentary value only in 50 years, if… here is a selection of pictures alongside the Kenyan roads, there are some differences with Tanzania but not much.

For instance I’ve never seen such a bicycle in Tanzania. The saddle refurbishment is interesting.

 

 

 

Mishkaki, whatever the spelling, is the nickname for those motorbikes with up to 3 adult passengers.

 

As in Tanzania, roadsides take a lot of time to be fixed…

 

Ingenious contraption. I’ve never seen that except in this case.

 

Sugar cane is eaten plain as a delicacy.

 

Charcoal is huge business in many African countries, bad business for the environment. Cheap fuel for cooking would be the answer but these days….

 

A funny road sign, ‘ole’ is a Masai prefix.

 

 

Kenyan roads, photography while driving

 

That poor woman, not young anymore and obviously still working hard. That piece of leather strap must give headaches… I’ve seen this on Masai women (not men) too and some had a slight curved mark on the skull!

Not the most artistic pictures but if Karine and I had stopped every time we wanted a nice picture, we would hav never made it to our friends’ wedding… So let’s see these pictures from Kenya as a documentary.

 

African roads are notoriously dangerous, have been for a long time, but the recent boom in advertising doesn’t help. Every company, school, church (especially bloody churches) want their ads on roadsides. It gets cluttered like on this picture and drivers get distracted, especially by trying to read small and dirty signs.

 

Coke sponsoring a church, am I tripping?

 

 

 

 

A beautiful example of '”mishkaki”, the local nickname for such an overloaded motorbike. Mind you, the engine is only a 125cc at best on these cheap crap Indian or Chinese imports.

 

 

Bikers deserve some respect! They load incredible amounts of goodies on their bicycles and deliver far away. I’ve seen a guy with about 100 kg of charcoal once loaded in a less than stable fashion… the bikes look like the typical black old Dutch model but are Chinese, heavy and worn out. No gear of course. Respect!

street life in pictures, Nairobi

 

I had dropped the airplane for inspection so I came back to Arusha by bus. The exact same trip I had done in 1999 for my first visit in Tanzania.

As usual I had bribed the driver to have the front seat with more leg room and a large window. Perfect position for street photography.

 

Since the usual landlines were notoriously crap, non-existent, unreliable in Africa, cellphones have been seen a blessing and the continent is picking faster than any other place in the world. This man has even 2 phones.

street life in Nairobi

 

Leaving Nairobi by bus back to Arusha, I snapped “Nairobbery” (the unofficial but most common nickname for Nairobi) life out of the window.

Soetimes I think there are more cellphones in Africa than in Europe

 

Ads are getting big and spread all over in Africa. Maybe the guy is having a hangover from that beer? As anybody can see, while the image is decent, the logo is shit as usual. Low carbs for a beer, who cares really? These marketing people really, no shame to consider consumers as morons….

 

Traffic cops…sometimes they just seemed at best to be considered as information doll, not to be taken seriously. Just the same for robot lights by the way.

 

At least they used a black santa! Good for them. Christianity still has a long way to go to adapt. Swedish look alike, blue eyed pale sick jesuses and maries are still the norm in Africa, basically coming from our medieval pieces of religious art. That probably helped the missionaries to keep the lid on African pride….

 

yep graffiti can be spotted here too. But not yet the same kind as we know in the West. Baby steps.

 

I suppose the road is in much better condition than the sidewalks, if any…

 

Nairobi Arusha on the road, photography

 

from the coach window, just observing road side life.

sugar cane stall. No juice machine, the cane is just for chewing.

 

That’s a new type of contraption on these taxi motorbikes. Not the best way to ride with the pole straight in the face….

 

street sellers at an unofficial bus stands. 

these little stalls are to be seen everywhere alongside roads, selling a bit of everything but mostly food.

 

A venerable Peugeot 104, still in reasonable shape I’d say, though she is having a bad day apparently. Peugeot managed to lose its grip on the African market. Toyota took over….

 

Mishkaki, aka shish kebab in swahili, whatever the spelling is, that’s the nickname given to such a travelling party. Mind you, it could be 4 adults on the same little motorbike.

 

lake Natron, Rift valley, Tanzania, aerial shooting

 

probably my best or clear view of lake Natron. Last week that day was just exceptionally clear, such a perfect visibility is quite rare. On one picture, looking to the east and south: Mt Gelai on the left, volcano Lengai on the right, and behind lies volcano Kerimasi and the tip of Ngorongoro northern Highlands. I’m shooting from the NW part of the lake, that is overhead Oldonyo Sambu and the western cliff.

I swapped lens to get Lengai closer. A slight amount of haze and dust still hampers the view…

 

vertical view.

a village at the foot of volcano Shombole on the northern shoreline.

then an airstrip lies next to it, Olorbelin, where Flying Medical Service operates one of its numerous clinics with a Cessna 206.

Olorbelin is Masai country.

 

near Shombole a river delta offers a paradise for animals in the normally hot and harsh environment that the lake usually offers.

 

receding and evaporating waters leaving ‘parallel’ marks.

 

McMinus heard of those glass floors on high towers where one can get a thrill by walking on ‘nothing’ and he wanted to share the experience by leaning against the dipping windshield. He’ll be even braver later. To be continued.