Ben Wilhelmi

Along the road, Uganda

 

 

A typical butchery in east Africa and maybe beyond. I'm told that the carcass is fresh from the morning, always. I spotted some smiles around...about our weak stomachs or about noticing my incredulous face?

 

 

 

Fur hoodie...? Uganda is not the hottest country but not cold either, to me.

 

Sugar cane delivery. Sadly I don't see those juice machines. My favorite juice in Zanzibar, sometimes in Dar

 

 

 

The dream at night when overtaking is envisioned...

 

In Kampala, many sidewalks are much larger than the streets. Traffic jams are there much worse then Dar es Salaam.

 

I aso owe an apology to some Tanzanian drivers I may have abused for their terrible driving...they are waaaayy worse here.

 

 

Fiest time I went to buy a phone voucher, I went to such a yellow shop. Only to discover the salesman was selling car parts. Millions of houses and shops are painted for free by big companies in those bright colors. Better then concrete grey hen people don't have th money for a paint job.

Scenes in the Masai bush, Tanzania

 

 

Fashion changes slowly even in the remote northern territories of Tanzania. This blue pattern is definitely not included in the traditional Masai clothing.

 

A non-perenial pond becomes the holy place while it lasts.

 

Cows are the main thing regarding status, show off and wealth. But goats are welcome as side dishes.

Donkeys are useful too but not much in term of status.

 

 

Things change...

 

 

Things change!!  "Tout fout le camp" as we say in French...

 

Some pictures in South Sudan

 

A tourist(?) market, well NGO people fall in that category somewhat.

I’ve been warned, Sudanese people can be cagey about pictures, especially the thousands of men sitting and doing nothing, well apparently. They are called security men. If true they made a special effort to look poor and craggy. So they’d be happy to jump on an unsuspecting photographer under the pretense of security. Secuwhat? The place is just a big dump behind rebuilt…but any way, any excuse to make some money is good enough.  So street photography is not as easy as in Tanzania…

 

I can see many similarities though.

 

I thought I had been spotted by Mr Darkglasses here but no action followed.

“Keep Juba clean”, yes please, the place is the dirtiest town I have seen so far.

 

I suppose one has to cope with the hurdles of a country being under reconstruction. Not everybody can afford a modern steel and glass office .

 

Cool name for a bank? Well is there any elephant in this country?

 

Happy ladies in Agok.

 

Unfazed kids: my gesture to shoo them away from the airstrip were ignored. They were still there when I took off…

US roads, photography while driving

 Route 66 but it could have been shot in many other stunning locations...

 

motorbikes, US roads

 

How does this guy manage to pick such a girl? AND how does he convince her to sit on that non-existent saddle 2 inches from those helmet spikes? In case of heavy breaking she gets a facelift for free....

 

A few pictures in Santa Fe.

 

 

 

between Oatman and Bullhead, Route 66

 

 

Cessna 206, Tanzanian bush

 

the airplane, the pond, the curious Masai kids.

 

normally a pilot sits on the left seat but there was a new pilot to train so I sat on the right seat, gave him a lesson about flying low and I took some shots

here on final just before landing in the Ngorongoro area

 

 

next to an active volcano, Oldoinyo Lengai

 

 

high wing aircraft have a few advantages, the wings provide shade to our doctor and the patients, the clearance is better if the airstrip hasn’t been properly cleared of bush or high grass, aerial viewing of the ground is better.

 

a Masai warrior on his motorbike.

 

the C206 on a sloped airstrip. The Ngorongoro Highlands also offer incredible landscapes.

Arusha Tanzania street photography

 

locals and expatriates or even tourists have many grudges against Arusha but I like to grab a camera and keep an eye open. Interesting sceneries happen.

“Boda boda”, the local nickname for motobike taxis. Only for people wish a death wish or a certain level of unconsciousness… These riders seemed to have jumped straight from bicycle riding to these. Here I got spotted by this pretty girl, she just smiled, didn’t ask for money.

 

Mobile fruit stand. Not so many around are that elaborate with a roof.

 

On a Sunday, shops are closed usually but other entrepreneurs squat the front pavements for their own business, usually selling crap Chinese goodies. Pleonasm I know and Africans were quick to notice that too after just a coupla years of invasion.

 

Umbrellas against the fierce sun. Common sighting lately, even in the bush.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Florida, photography

 

Crystal River near Tampa, I spent a few weeks there for a flying upgrade.

This bar was a bit…special. I heard there used to be anti French mottos on the walls, and French people were just plainly not welcome. Maybe there is a new management and new patrons because I didn’t meet any morons to challenge my French accent (though I’m Belgian).

The front place was interesting enough: A Harley next to a Japanese bike and a carriage, an elephant, a 9/11 memorial. Funny enough the American bald eagle looks very much like the Africa fish eagle. Latin names are respectively haliaeetus leucocephalus and haliaeetus vocifer. Quite a long way to fly apart for these cousins.

 

The owner was pleased that I had stopped to take a few snaps and ask some specs about the car. He said people around were not nice to him, considered him a red neck and thus avoided him. Well true Florida is a nest of retired religious right wingers but then look at the car… seen from my European point of view, this car seems indeed to belong to the redneck pool.

 

Or this one.

 

Renting a discrete RV seems mission impossible in the USA…

 

But then why would you want to be discrete in the US?

 

Florida seems flatter than Holland. I wonder where this modified SUV needs such a high wheel clearance? To drive over gators?

 

This poor girl spent hours yelling, clapping, dancing in the sun. She still made an effort to pose for me.

 

Common scenery.

photography on the Kenyan roads

 

After a venerable Peugeot 504, we spotted this hardly younger Datsun. Notice the thin spare wheel. Those cops are definitely not equipped for car chases…

 

Always keep your eyes open when crossing a village. There always details to spot, like bright fresh colors on shanty buildings.

 

Pupils on their way or away to school. It’s hard to say which sometimes as pupils can be spotted wandering any time of the day. Same situation in Tanzania.

 

Masai on the phone in front of a cellphone network advertisement.

 

Cows, donkeys, goats are numerous on the roads. Sometimes they’re just grazing and one can’t help wondering why they seem to choose the very edge of a highway to do so whereas the infinite grassy savannah is just there…

 

An alluring restaurant.

 

Another die-hard Peugeot 504. I’m always amazed that the French carmaker managed to lose its African market to Toyota when they had such great cars.

 

A discreet butchery, no sign but the meat is obviously hanging on a hook, in the sun attracting flies. A common scenery…

 

I can’t help wondering what can be so extreme while having a haircut in this hair salon.

 

A ‘mishkaki’, nickname for these overloaded motorbike taxis. Or bodaboda in local language.

As said before the African roads are rarely boring.

pictures on the US roads

 

Some pictures on the long I 95, between Bullhead (Arizona on the edge with California) going north to Las Vegas.

Karine and the rental Ford. With all our bags and photo gear and shopping goodies, this car size was a minimum to hide everything in the boot.

 

Harleys…the myth goes on. Nowadays, Harley trips can be organised from abroad. Rent your Harley and ride! I try to imagine a French biker meeting a group of hard core indigenous bikers haha. Over the years on US TV shows, I’ve spotted a dozen remarks towards France, usually negative. It seems the smart finger the French gave over Iraq invasion still doesn’t go down well with some people. I’m not French by the way so any attack on my opinion should keep this in sight 

 

No there is no river there, just a funny casino on the border between Arizona and Nevada.

I must say I’m not always keen on the road signs system, a bit messy sometimes. Maybe I would just need time to get used to…

I have to fish for the close up picture of that contraption because this model is the “Serengeti” version!! I’d like to see that monster on the narrow and winding dirt roads to reach the real Serengeti through the Ngorongoro area….

 

many signs like this one were spread alongside highways, usually on the same theme.

Arusha in Tanzania, street life photography

 

When locals or expatriates moan about Arushan authorities doing not much about the road situation and other things (though IMF gave money years back), they have a point.

This is straight in the town center, one example amongst many others where pedestrians risk their limbs…

 

 

 

These guys deserve some respect: they push various goodies all day long and sometimes real heavy stuff.

 

Empty spaces are quickly filled up in town, various “business” people will sell whatever you need. Food of course followed immediately by cell phone vouchers. Tanzania is indeed the fastest growing country in Africa in term of mobile network. Not that surprising since the landline system was hardly better than sending running messengers to deliver your messages.

 

Coca Cola, you know you’re in the middle of nowhere when there is no Coke to be sold. Impressive how that company managed to spread out efficiently in remote parts of the world. You might run short of fuel, electricity, water, various imported goodies but never, just never run short of Coca Cola. Somebody said Coke CEO’s should also be in charge instead of some lousy actual governments. Sometimes I think the idea is not so bad….

 

 

 

 

 

on the road, USA

 

Yes! Somebody walking in the US!!

 

Too funny these 2…

 

this guy doesn’t listen to his mother! I’m sure she has told him many times to wear a helmet or at least a hat for the sun. Seriously I can’t believe some US states don’t require the helmet for riders. In a country where one sues anybody for any moronic reason, so by now some wounded bikers would have sued some legislators because they were not told it was dangerous to ride without  helmet… worse in Florida, the law was reversed under Jeb Bush and it’s not compulsory anymore. Just like his bro’ he must have been rocked too close to the wall when he was an infant….

 

cruising on US roads, vast landscapes

 

one drives on the long stretches of US roads and never gets bored (well you shouldn’t in my opinion….), specially in the West.

Nairobi Arusha on the road, photography

 

from the coach window, just observing road side life.

sugar cane stall. No juice machine, the cane is just for chewing.

 

That’s a new type of contraption on these taxi motorbikes. Not the best way to ride with the pole straight in the face….

 

street sellers at an unofficial bus stands. 

these little stalls are to be seen everywhere alongside roads, selling a bit of everything but mostly food.

 

A venerable Peugeot 104, still in reasonable shape I’d say, though she is having a bad day apparently. Peugeot managed to lose its grip on the African market. Toyota took over….

 

Mishkaki, aka shish kebab in swahili, whatever the spelling is, that’s the nickname given to such a travelling party. Mind you, it could be 4 adults on the same little motorbike.

 

Arusha, street life in pictures while driving

The pictures below are always that great but while ‘m stuck in traffic jam or driving slowly, Arusha street life keeps me busy. There is always one detail, one funny feature catching your eye, well for those who can enjoy that activity.

Colors don’t always match perfectly, but colorful it is out there. Many vehicles in Africa show a motto related to religions. Some can be scary like “God is my co-driver”! I’m always concerned the driver might be busy picking his nose a bit too long and rely too much on his so-called co-driver…

 

For once a smart motto.

 

Wooden hand-carts are numerous and have to be taken into account in the jams.

Colors! Sometimes you better wear strong sunglasses!

This guy overestimated his own weight but is getting helped. The neighbor is busy loading a huge crate of tomatoes, maybe a second one on top later, on his piki piki (small motorbike in swahili) and then will probably drive like crazy as usual.

 

And cyclists know a few things too about riding overloaded….only bread but still.

That’s it, some of the pictures I collected on one morning drive to the airport… better than a jammed European highway!

Florida alongside the road, Crystal River

 

I spent a few weeks in Crystal River near Tampa last year. Between studies or flights I’d walk (yes, walk in the US!) or jog around looking for details. The main things that attracted my eyes were: hardly no pedestrians, no surprise, and a lot of Harley Davidsons, no surprise either.

 

Manatees were unfortunately on holidays, I wish I had spotted them in the nearby creek, a renowned worldwide place. (en fr. il s’agit de lamantins)

 

Palm trees often look like the highest landmarks in a Floridian landscape.

 

Chevrolet Corvette.

 

some interesting facts in the US: safety helmets are not always compulsory. Worse, in Florida, it used to be mandatory to wear them. Then some genius of a governor decided to repel that law!

typical US highway. No house but shops and business offices.

 

billboards on route 66, shot while driving

 

being a keen amateur photographer while driving on any US roads requires some iron-discipline otherwise the temptation to stop every mile or so will hit big time. Still nothing prevents some shooting while the car is moving. Karine and I did that a lot, like below on route 66, Arizona section.

graphic pictures, it’s about time the same kind of warnings are set on cigarette packs… fucking lobbyists and greedy coward politicians!

 

then we left the route 66 at Bullhead on the Californian border towards Las Vegas.

Harley Davidson motorcycles, US roads

We had just left Bullhead City, Arizona, on route 66 going north towards Las Vegas. The road follows the California state line for a bit, overlooking on the Californian landscape, here Mojave nat’l reserve. Karine was driving, I was shooting. The American Way, the myth... still kept alive by many.

another woman really in love of her biker. Her saddle look like postal stamp size type, there is nothing to support her back, and she has to beware the guy’s helmet spikes!! I really wonder what are his secrets….

 

 

campers? I was quite disappointed to realise most of the riders had no luggage showing camping activities. Sleeping bags were extremely rare…. the myth of the wild riders is taking the flak? We had even spotted a group of European riders with a broom van!!

 

 

 

WW II Wehrmacht’s helmets are still fashionable.

 

this guy I had just met while we were refuelling was in fact really friendly, he absolutely wanted us to show up at a big Harley gathering (though we were driving a regular Sedan and my motorbike here in Arusha is Japanese make). The myth of the aggressive Hell’s Angels is dwindling….

 

that big gathering was happening in Oatman, a few miles away on route 66. For hours we saw Harleys on the road, 1000’s, every kind of them, and mostly every kind of riders.

on a road trip, Arizona

 

We had left Sante Fe, New Mexico early morning, driving west. I don’t know why these 2 bikers chose the exact state line limit to stop, under a no parking sign…whichever way cops would come, the bikers could cross the other side under a different jurisdiction?

Each US state have a nickname, here Grand Canyon state of course. Land of Enchantment applies to New Mexico.

 

the scenery changed quite drastically from flat desert to this mountainous landscape. No wonder people like to drive on this kind of roads for hours. Just after entering Arizona, we took a north road towards Monument Valley. Rocks are getting redder and more dramatic. Once in a while a homestead lied at the foot of a rock crop. Spectacular scenery but a closer look usually revealed some junk in the yard, and derelict houses or trailers.

 

this area is under Indian jurisdiction. Here people have been given some autonomy after years of claiming their land back. Poverty seems the rule as it is wildly known and things don’t seem to change much over the years, seen from a tourist point of view that is. Poverty and alcohol were the most striking feats I encountered in a previous trip in the area in 1997. I had just got my flying license in Missouri in a shorter time than planned so a lot of free time and spare cash were available, I had bought an old Dodge to cruise around with no specific plans for a while so I had given a few rides to hitch hikers. Curious to meet people and hear stories.

Monument Valley showing on the horizon! Many films have been shot here. The fabulous Claudia Cardinale was here for Sergio Leone’s “Once Upon in the West”, one example out of many…

I had my stories…quite sad in this area. One hiker, quite drunk at 8am explained a legend about the origin of the beautiful turquoise stones. Some Indian women had preferred to die with their children instead of facing awful treatment under the white man’s rules. So they cried a lot while taking the decision, the tears fell down a river and transformed into turquoise. He was surprised that Custer, Wounded Knee, Little Big Horn, Sitting Bull…were not totally unknown names in Europe.

The man also complained heavily that the government had plundered the country, kicked the native people out, prevented them from living their ancestral way of life, even nowadays that Indians in theory could do it again it became an impossible mission…always 2 sides to a story but sure alcohol doesn’t help.

cool America…road trip pictures

 

this one was the most ridiculous contraption we saw on our trip.

 

isn’t that love ? That too tall girl is clinging on her dude like a backpack. But check the seat! There is hardly any seat, it looks she s sitting on the mudguard. Karine had looked at me with that kind of ‘not even in your dream’ look.

 

a pink helmet on a Harley….?

 

 

Look at the jacket…

Harley Davidson gathering, Oatman, route 66

 

April 2010, Karine and I were cruising along route 66 and arrived in Oatman, Arizona. The little village was invaded by Harleys and some few other brands. A lot of bike equipment and beer were on sale.

Let’s imagine some dedicated music here, like “the Good the Bad and the Ugly”….

Some bikers seemed interesting characters….

seriously there were 1000’s of bikes that day, here in Bullhead on the Californian state line. Too bad we had booked a hotel in Las Vegas that night. One of the very few bookings we had made…