Ben Wilhelmi

Tanzania, some random pictures

 

Just being a bit lazy today, there is no particular theme in the pictures below..

 

I wish I had had more time to stop and see that bush contraption from up close. Needless to stay the engine rattled quite a lot. I would venture in naming a Land Cruiser as a base...

 

 

 

 

 

Xmas in a pajama? Or am I such a fashion ignorant again?

 

The Peninsula area in Dar es Salaam, thronging into the Indian ocean.

 

Women have any job they want in Tanzania, even a president these days, Mama Samia.

 

 

The one and only, the unique volcano of its kind in the world, and active: Oldoinyo Lengai. Rift valley.

The same, another view, here on the right hand side.

 

"Yo Bo wassup" etc....very common in Africa.

 

One of those impromptu fashion windows along the bus stands.

 

 

In cities and towns, the most modern bars and restaurants will be available. Elsewhere such a restaurant will be quite common.

 

 

Uganda, street photography

 

 

Those mannequins are to be seen everywhere in Uganda, always white and slim...hardly any in Tanzania.

 

 

As I said in a previous post, my legendary smile works for a friendly reaction...

Or not..

 

 

 

The patient lady selling traditional brooms along the traffic jam

 

Color study... well Africa is a color study in itself!

 

Street pictures, Uganda

 

 

Rain protection..

Masks are taken too seriously...more a police fear thing.

 

 

 

Got caught at my game but with a lot of humor!

Fashion and more

 

Here are some modern pictures snapped in Tanzania. Wildlife, stunning landscapes, Masai people safaris are only one aspect of Tanzania, a bit reductive somewhat. The pictures below are a modest attempt to show a different aspect of this stunning country.

 

This stunning woman has been one of my favorite anonymous model recently. Mwanza city, aka Rock city.

Huge billboards sadly have come with modernism...Dar es salaam.

 

One of the cool bars with nice views in Dar.

 

 

Yeah, girls will be girls, everywhere. Check check...what's the verdict?

I hope this comment won't get me crucified by feminists and other politically correct activists...

 

Female pilot and flight engineers have been our colleagues for a while now.

 

I have to send this picture to Christian Dior's company. They might get a heart attack...

 

Below are some fashionistas commonly spotted in the Dar malls:

No idea who the woman on the yellow dress is but she is often to be seen around.

 

In cities, Tanzania

 

I tend to post pictures of the picturesque Africa...guilty. To show what is similar to Europe doesn't seem so attractive but then I decided to be fair and show everything modern and maybe boring. There is a lot more than the bush....And while doing that, I noticed the stunning fashion, the colors, the style, the various styles and that became interesting.

 

Stripes and polka dots in the KFC. This model could have been waiting in a Subway or Pizza Hut.

 

I did wait 10 min for this one. I had noticed the new buses had the same ad as the building...Those buses hav their own fast lanes in Dar.

 

 

The modern bus stands are located between the 2 bus lanes. So while I drive I get this kind of view, like a catwalk. Can you see my reflection in the yellow pattern?

Dar and a few of its many skyscrapers and large highways.

 

A coupla fashionistas again.

"Yo Bro whassup?". Those have been here for a while. Big hit in the local music industry.

Poor framing, sorry but look at the girl on the right side. Does she know these ripped jean's have been around for 50 years?

Also the rainbow shoes? That is where I feel very old...Sometimes I only notice extra details when I start the editing.

 

Street photography, Uganda

 

 

These trendy hats are quite common in Uganda  Not at all in Tanzania. I love how fashion gets recycled.

 

 

The "I don't care lady" gliding through the downpour...

 

 

 

Usually my natural charm suffices to defuse a situation when I get spotted.

 

Or not...

 

These contraptions on the other end, unlike the retro hats, are common through the East African countries...I got rescued once in Kenya and once that Land Rover came to a halt next to my car the driver slammed the door and the front grid fell off! Just like in a movie. But those mechanics are good at fixing older cars on the spot. A bit more challenging with modern cars full of electronics...

 

 

 

Rare case of a mask worn, and properly. A few dozens deaths due to corona since the beginning. One cannot blame the average Ugandan especially with some notorious examples come from the West

Kampala, Kikuubo bazaar

 

 

 

Notice the heavily taped carb board trays. Their main purpose is to life the whole set of items at once to allow a delivery vehicle to pass through. Normal circulation is not allowed so the street is taken by the poorest sellers.

 

 

 

The bazaar also contains a few buildings made of labyrinths on a few floors. Olivia runs through that with impressive ease.

 

 

 

 

 

Another president for life overlooking  hot elections these days... Only 33 years in power.

 

Bagozza Milano...another fakeryat best. Or fake fakery.

Butiaba, floods on lake Albert, Uganda, part lll

 

 

 

 

And this brave woman smiles! What a resilience after months of misery.

And the massive road work is being carried on as usual. No visible help is diverted to the people. I hope l missed something on that aspect.

There was a street some time ago...

Some residents are relocating, salvaging what they can.

 

Another resilient woman, laughing while spreading fish to dry.

 

The road work going for 100's of km in the area.

Kikuubo market, Kampala

 

 

 

These waitresses must be fit, they never stop delivering dishes across the vast Kikuubo market.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moschino, Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior...these brands are not faked in the traditional sense sometimes, just created by some lousy crooks slapping names on awful creations, even mixing names on the same garments.

 

 

 

Butiaba and the floods, lake Albert, part II

 

 

 

A massive highway project is still going on but help to the people? Apparently not.

 

 

 

These guys took a bath further away, away from sewage and potential cholera...

 

Previous marking of water level.

A rare smile that day...

 

 

 

Nile cabbage everywhere...

 

Salvaving is a common occupation...

The over cautious cyclist wearing a motorbike helmet.

 

The very end of the road. No quay, harbor, ferry boat...

 

Uganda, roadside life

 

 

I don't want to diminish the Tanzanian drivers, riders and others but the Ugandan road "skills" are a step "higher". For example 3 passengers and maybe cargo is a common sighting here, even in cities where the cops don't even bother to stop the habit. Their driving skills in traffic jam is also one league away...I owe an apology to all the Tanzanian drivers I might have abused in the past for what was in comparison amateur recklessness.

 

Lukewarm attitude towards Covid...and cool rubber boots.

 

The guy enjoyed the view ...

 

Another common scenery...

Elections in the making...dirty, violent and unfair, what a surprise.

The Harley dreamer?

Sweet apparition in the bush.

Butiaba and flooding, lake Albert, Uganda

 

Olivia and I left Murchison Falls, also locally called Kabarega falls, through a western gate, spent a night in a non descript place, Buliisa, after trying to spot the Nile delta where the Victoria Nile flows in lake Albert but Wanseko was flooded. And the next day we drove to Butiaba,also on the shore of lake Albert. Not much there except for the old timers, "The African Queen" was partly shot here. And a ferry that, like in Murchison and Wanseko, was discontinued. No surprise and a bit irrelevant fact to us as we didn't plan to travel to Congo on the other side of the lake. And also on lake Tanganyika, Tanzania, for the big military boat scenes.

Oh and Hemingway was injured in a  2nd airplane crash here after being rescued from the first one in Murchison falls...

Here is a view of the lake from the escarpment...

 

 

Indeed the Nile went high up in this area too...

 

The irony considering some signs are about water projects...

 

The African art of packing but in this case we didn't smile. This car was the only example of some food
delivery we saw in the short time we stayed there. There are hardly no shop open and apparently not much help from agencies...

But a massive highway is under construction, apparently useless for now...

 

I often get reactions, positive and negative, from people when I shoot them. Here, nothing...people must have other things on their minds like relocating, salvaging what can be salvaged, feeding...

 

Whatever museum or good restaurant that might have been available in Butiaba quickly looked a wasted wish to us...

One of the sad view of the day...

 

Life goes on for the fishing people...

 

This is the end of the road ending short of the submerged harbor.

The recent higher water level is clearly visible on the wall.

 

Kampala, street photography

 

I feel sorry for these sellers...the job to pack and unpack everyday, carry the whole burden across Kampala unpractical streets...

 

 

 

Corona is officially there but the measures are half hearted in many cases. Here above is one good citizen though.

 

Women tend to be more friendly than women when I practice street photography. Smile, waving hand, even a blow kiss...but men? That is another league. Some will be friendly too (no blow kiss though) but others will be plain rude, I don't blame them, and yell the same obscenity, that is "Eat your mother's ass"! Similar to the French "Nique ta mère"...(fuck your mother)

I know I have been a "fashionisto" but I think I can spot a fashion crime here, no?

 

Street photography, Kampala, Uganda

 

 

The fried tilapia...absolutely not my favorite.

The frequently seen emergency rain hat...

Shower cap is less frequent.

All those 1000's mannequins I have seen in Uganda are white...there should be a market for African type.

The corona situation is wobbly. Few wear it and when they do... then the schools are closed but not the infamous public minibuses, nor the markets...

I get all kind of reactions for the pictures, laughing, anger, indifference, abuse and the most frequent one seems to be "Lya amatako ganyoko" which is "Eat your mother's ass". But my charm worked on these ladies apparently.

Uganda, street photography

 

 

Any color missing in this shot? Purple...

 

I had only taken this shot for the colors and contrasts but my Ugandan common-law wife laughed at it and pointed out the roots carried by the vendor, "mulondo" which is the equivalent of our blue pills. I'm glad the need for it has never come in our conversations...

 

 

Elections coming next year, they didn't waste to start the electoral campaign. 

 

this picture misses a yellow touch, I know...

 

While waiting for my car to be fixed, I grabbed my camera.

25 kg bags of rice, sugar, flour...are very common here too. Tough job for the housewives.

 

Unusual moped in Kampala.

 

 

Uganda, street photography

 

As stated before, Africa is street photographer must. Colors, activity, fashion...

"Why run pretty lady? Is anybody dumb enough to run over you?"

 

Helmet...baby step.

I can't remember I have ever seen such a bicolored dress.

 

Kampala, street photography

Street photography has been a hobby since Mom offered my first SLR camera in 1987. Not that fashionable by then but I had discovered the big masters...

Fast forward 33 years and I am still at it, here in Kampala, Uganda, right now.

 

 

Stunning fashionistas are numerous along traditional outfits which can also be quite awesome...

 

 

...or not?

 

 

oh and haircuts are a whole chapter of their own.

 

Corona...the rules are a bit more followed than in Tanzania but it is more due to a fear factor of the police I hear. On approaching a police road block, whether in a bus or in a car, everyone lifts the mask up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kikubo bazaar, Kampala, Uganda

Kikubo, central Kampala, closed to regular circulation, even to cows. Most of the retailers operate here.

 

The banana seller is the attraction on the picture but notice the orange hat. Isn't that an old-fashioned hat from the roaring 20's? Yet I have seen quite a few of them here in Uganda only, different colors and patterns. Still very stylish on African women l'd say.

 

On top of the chaotic atmosphere in the bazaar, the show is also about fashion. Bras for sale...and those ladies know a few things, whether l can appreciate or not.

My big problem these days are slippers or sandals with furry decorations and to add insult...socks!

I'm told I cannot understand fashion...

 

At least this elegant woman fits some of my fashion standards.

 

 

Items are stacked beyond belief, no space must wasted.

Even stairs are rented to lower class business people.

And the street itself can be squatted. These entrepreneurs just have to be ready to lift up aside the goodies on a tarpaulin or small table when a deliver van shows up.

Traditional brooms and cool sport hat on the lady in red. "Venezia". Another long trip for a garment. I have spotted a t-shirt once belonging my Belgian bank.

 

 

 

No idea what this is..

 

'

 

Along the road, Uganda

 

 

A typical butchery in east Africa and maybe beyond. I'm told that the carcass is fresh from the morning, always. I spotted some smiles around...about our weak stomachs or about noticing my incredulous face?

 

 

 

Fur hoodie...? Uganda is not the hottest country but not cold either, to me.

 

Sugar cane delivery. Sadly I don't see those juice machines. My favorite juice in Zanzibar, sometimes in Dar

 

 

 

The dream at night when overtaking is envisioned...

 

In Kampala, many sidewalks are much larger than the streets. Traffic jams are there much worse then Dar es Salaam.

 

I aso owe an apology to some Tanzanian drivers I may have abused for their terrible driving...they are waaaayy worse here.

 

 

Fiest time I went to buy a phone voucher, I went to such a yellow shop. Only to discover the salesman was selling car parts. Millions of houses and shops are painted for free by big companies in those bright colors. Better then concrete grey hen people don't have th money for a paint job.

on the road, Tanzania

 

Some areas in Tanzania will see many girls or women on bicycles. Others, none.

 

 

 

A bit of nostalgi...my old dirt bike.

 

Architecture and mix of style and colors can be interesting...

 

The smart display.

Common scene in many bus stops or crossroads...some areas are simply annoying.

 

 

 

Sometimes a guy sits in a sofa and enjoys a VIP ride.

 

Rural transport, Tanzania

 

 

So I finally reached Uganda 10 days after I drove from Dar es Salaam. The drive itself is quite uneventful. The Corona factor was the issue. 3 days wasted in Mwanza for a test that was finally not accepted in Uganda. Is it about money extortion? Nowhere was it specified on any official website...so 2 more days wasted in a lousy border post, Mutukula, west of lake Victoria. There are some parks and reserves wedged between the lake and Rwanda, Tanzanian side but completely off the main parks in Tanzania. And so not many tourists seem to go there apparently, even in normal times.

The trip is quite pleasant for the joy of driving to central and northwest Tanzania instead of flying over, for the great landscapes in some areas, and for the details that differ between regions, for the life on the side of the roads...

Today I chose some pictures about the transport theme.

I want to make it clear that I shot a lot of pictures while driving and focused on the funny vehicles and contraptions that usually impress a travelling "mzungu". I didn't focus too much on the many cars, some of luxury type, the many buses and trucks that roam the roads. But I insist the country is not to be limited on the pictures below.

 

"Proudly Tanzanian"...this rider is my champion on the road so far. In fact we should praise the 2nd woman sitting flimsily on the baskets at the very back of the bike. Yes you can notice another passenger wedged in the middle of the cargo. Hats off to the would-be engineers who patched and roped such a burden on the bike. The helmet was optional...

 

 

Safer but more colorful, this tuktuk here called "bajaj" for the most common brand.

In the Tabora region, red, yellow or blue tyres are common. Unseen in Dar or Dodoma. Cycling girls and women are also numerous in the region, as opposed to other regions.

 

 

In Mwanza...dala dala are also more colorful and decorated.

Bicycle taxis are more common in the center. Too hot or too hilly somewhere else? Notice the cushion.

I couldn't believe it when L actually saw one man riding such an assembly. I thought the thing was meant to be pushed.

But here we go. Amazing.

 

Another case of a proud Tanzanian man. Such a painting is rare though.

Not too heavy I suppose but a bit unstable?

Street photography in Mwanza, Tanzania

 

 

So I drove from Dar es Salaam to Kampala, starting last week. To enter Uganda one needs a Covid test valid for 72h, which was a bit of a mission to obtain in Mwanza, the closest point to the Ugandan border. Luckily the test starts its 72h on the testing day, not collecting day. Sadly I discovered at the border that it was useless since Uganda doesn't recognise the Tanzanian results... but that is for another day.

In the meantime I did my best to enjoy Mwanza and street photography being one of my hobbies...

 

This stunning lady was the highlight of the day for that hobby matter.

 

 

 

 

It seems this complex hairdo is a novelty...lots of pins in there. I need to double check with friend if this style is the next rage. I wonder if she passes a metal detector without raising alarm.

 

 

The lucky railing...

 

I love the helmet situation... 

 

 

 

B/W portraits on films, in the bush, Tanzania

 

Sieving some analog black and white through my archives...before digital times. it had its perks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Masai portraits, Tanzania

 

when I was privileged to work in some remote areas in Tanzania...

 

Here is a Masai boy who has just been circumsized, this new status while healing leads him soon to the next awaited one, warriorhood. The white mask and black cloak indicate this impure status.

And here is somehow the feminine version of the circumsized boy. Just instead of the warrior times, she'll be able to marry.

 

 

 

B/W film photography, Masai people.

 

 

One of my little privileges of living in Africa is having the time...well I am obviously still a bit obnoxious about it but I have some free time nevertheless and opportunities, like bringing vintage cameras to remote areas, here around lake Natron with a magnificent 1961 Rolleiflex allowing 12 shots per medium format film roll, very old fashioned.

Why...? Because l can? Because l couldn't afford such an expensive camera 20 or more years ago. And well it is just about driving a venerable car or listening to a LP...

 

Some portraits in the bush, Tanzania

 

 

A Masai boy showing his regalia. It means he has been recently circumsized and the next step is warriorhood.

 

 

Pictures in South Sudan

 

 

 

Notice the feather.

 

 

the water point near the airtsrip. Notice the armored vehicle to welcome my airplane.

 

 

 

 

Cool pattern for this pajama?

 

 

At a USAid center, Pibor.

 

 

 

Fashion in South Sudan

In the middle of a civil war, fashion is interesting and of various influences.

 

 

Have a 2nd look at her hat...

 

Yep a slab of meat!

 

Ole! A traditional Spanish dress!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

South Sudan, random pictures

 

 

South Sudan, a veeery common scene...

 

Notice the scars and the jewel on the chin. The place was Kapoeta on the Kenyan border. Somebody told me they were cousins with the Masai people.

Fashion, henna work, jewels, South Sudanese women try hard to escape a bit from the daily horrors.

 

Welcoming party in Yirol for a VIP. Dance and...

...guns! I hated those happy trigger dudes around people and my airplane...

When the plane drops cargo in a no-seat configuration but people insist on boarding on the return flight...ah well if they are happy to sit on the floor, why not. I just to be careful and explain in detail that the aft area is a total no go (not exactly true but just to be safe over the language barrier).

Happy to sit on the floor or on anything...on another occasion there had been fighting all night long and people had died in Rubkona village and sporadic shootings were still going on while boarding! That day I took about 10 women and 22 kids on board. That plane, a Grand Caravan 208, is normally configured for 13 passengers... South Sudan being the wild west, thsi shouldn't be a surprise.

USAid center on a delivery day, Pibor.

 

Full load of biscuits...the plane was so packed I couldn't take another box. Except on my lap.

Those Chinese made bicycles are everywhere in East Africa, and beyond? One of the few kind of good Chinese products...a Grand Caravan in the background. Yirol.

Tribal woman, impressive scars to say the least.

A rare sweet moment in that war torn country... there were a few kids on that airstrip in Aweil
, all dressed in an interesting fashion and more than happy to pose and check the results on the screen.

Guess what some airfield lousy little chief of whatever (you know the kind with a few pens in his shirt pocket and black sunglasses) gave us a show of abuse of authorities, trying to make me delete my pictures under the name of security...kids, a dirt strip, one aircraft wreck, one old hangar, scorched earth as far as you can see, you get the picture...

some smartphones are great to fool those photo idiots. If you don't open the phone with your password but open the camera function, it shows "no picture no video in this folder" coz they are stored somewhere and one has no access without the password. This guy didn't  know that and I fooled him.

Street photography in Stonetown, Zanzibar

 

 

Boiled eggs are commonly sold in the streets in Tanzania.

 

Various beach hawkers roam the sand...

 

Even some cool Masai dudes but a lot less than in the past. Some can even entertain ladies...

 

 

Common scenery, the man is dressed like a rapper or street fashion style nut the lady has to cope with traditions.

 

 

 

 

Scenes in the bush, northern Tanzania

 

 

When there are no official public transport...

 

Hard work for this woman.

 

Notice how nobody stepped out to lighten the car...

 

 

This Masai lady uses an umbrella obviously not from the rain nowhere to be seen but from the scorching sun. Temperatures can come close to 50C at the bottom of the Rift valley.

 

A dust storm or dust devil passing by. Pretty harmless except for a slow and low flying plane. Very common near the equator.

 

 

Kids are the same everywhere!

 

Kids are the happiest in the rain season which only lasts a couple of months.

Random aerials, Tanzania

 

 

It took me a while and a picture to notice at the same time a reflection and a shadow of an aircraft. "They have eyes but don't see" says the latine proverb...

Here over lake Natron salt flats.

 

Flamingoes taking off. Lake natron again but on a normal looking area where the water reaches 3m deep.

 

2 young Masai boys. Their white make up and black cloaks indicate the boys were recently circumcized, paving the way to warriorhood.

 

I was lucky that day...what a scenery.

 

Lake Natron again, always a different coat.

Masai portraits in the Tanzanian outback

A selection of masai people in various stage of their lives...

 

The married man.

 

Young woman.

 

Young boy freshly circumsized and in the impure healing period. It shows by his black cloak, his feathers at an early stage around his head, and the white make up.

 

same period for these 2 teens but they belong to another clan and are more sober in display.

 

And for girls, the fashion also shows their new status, here are 2 girls from 2 different clans . The black cloaks and the white beads are the main markers.

 

 

Another married man. Where did he pick his vintage 70's hat?

 

A young girl who has not been through the ear extension process.

 

A married woman in full traditional gear, included the extended ears.

 

 

B/W portraits, Sonjo tribe, Tanzania

For a change here are some pictures from a lesser known tribe, the Sonjo from the Sonjo valley west of lake Natron. The women are not flamboyant like the Masai women, strange as they are neighbors. The young on the other end tend to copy the Masai warriors. It seems it is not out of awe but out of fear to be spotted in the bush and killed. Pretending can save one skin. These tribes have been enemies with the Masai for centuries...like most tribes which happen to cross paths and cows with the Masai.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Street photography in Stonetown, Zanzibar

 

 

 

The billy boys.

 

 

 

 

 

Colorful fashionista!

 

Kids are kids everywhere...

 

Kids and young men love to show off on the beach front. Some are real performers, whether in diving exercises or on solid ground.

 

Arusha, street photography

 

 

 

Stonetown, random pictures

 

 

 

 

B/W film Masai portraits, Tanzania

 

 

 

All shot recently with a Rolleiflex 3.5F, a medium format beauty camera from 1961. Sometimes it feels good to show the millennials that there was life of various sorts before digital era, before selfies....

 

Bush portraits in Tanzania

One of my jobs in northern Tanzania allowed me to meddle in the very remote areas where foreign visitors or workers were rare, like these pictures around lake Natron or Sonjo valley many eyars ago. I gave my models, usually Maasai but along Sonjo a lesser know tribe, proper prints never money. I didn't want to spoil the game.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Street pictures in Arusha, Tanzania

 

 

Those carts are still very common, this one particularly bulky. A stripped or a huge sofa can fit too!

 

Street vendors, everywhere, borderline annoying...

Another common scenery, women carrying about everything on their head.

 

 

 

 

Helmets ....baby steps!