Ben Wilhelmi

Tanzania, some random pictures

 

Just being a bit lazy today, there is no particular theme in the pictures below..

 

I wish I had had more time to stop and see that bush contraption from up close. Needless to stay the engine rattled quite a lot. I would venture in naming a Land Cruiser as a base...

 

 

 

 

 

Xmas in a pajama? Or am I such a fashion ignorant again?

 

The Peninsula area in Dar es Salaam, thronging into the Indian ocean.

 

Women have any job they want in Tanzania, even a president these days, Mama Samia.

 

 

The one and only, the unique volcano of its kind in the world, and active: Oldoinyo Lengai. Rift valley.

The same, another view, here on the right hand side.

 

"Yo Bo wassup" etc....very common in Africa.

 

One of those impromptu fashion windows along the bus stands.

 

 

In cities and towns, the most modern bars and restaurants will be available. Elsewhere such a restaurant will be quite common.

 

 

Bush flying in Tanzania

 

 

During my recent years with Safari Air link...

That tiny Go Pro camera to fix here and there outside the plane... great results, crappy manufacture sadly.

 

Fueling in the bush...an old military truck, a coupla drums, a fuel pump, Katavi park

One of the many visitors around or on the airstrip., Msembe, Ruaha park.

 

Busy day/night in the Selous reserve. 3 of our Caravan 208 planes after a rainy afternoon..

 

I took off at dawn, early mornings are not my things but starting at night and facing the wide sky lightening up has its perks. And in this occasion, I had slept next to the aircraft. Wake up, 2 min walk and start up...pretty cool. Breakfast on board. 

A day trip at Iringa airfield for these students. As everywhere they were more interested in pictures...

Boeing 727 dwarfing our Caravan. That venerable beast was a wonderful plane but few remains, getting old and abused. and very noisy. The noise abatement rules make their operations difficult. This one is operated in Kenya but here shot in Dar es Salaam, the commercial capital of Tanzania.

Another early flight, Ruaha park.

Mtemere airstrip in the Selous reserve (now Julius Nyerere national park for half of it), on the edge of the Rufiji river. The plane looks lost on the parking spot.

My colleague Danie on take off, Msembe airtsrip, Ruaha park. Notice the distortion out of the exhaust.

Fashion and more

 

Here are some modern pictures snapped in Tanzania. Wildlife, stunning landscapes, Masai people safaris are only one aspect of Tanzania, a bit reductive somewhat. The pictures below are a modest attempt to show a different aspect of this stunning country.

 

This stunning woman has been one of my favorite anonymous model recently. Mwanza city, aka Rock city.

Huge billboards sadly have come with modernism...Dar es salaam.

 

One of the cool bars with nice views in Dar.

 

 

Yeah, girls will be girls, everywhere. Check check...what's the verdict?

I hope this comment won't get me crucified by feminists and other politically correct activists...

 

Female pilot and flight engineers have been our colleagues for a while now.

 

I have to send this picture to Christian Dior's company. They might get a heart attack...

 

Below are some fashionistas commonly spotted in the Dar malls:

No idea who the woman on the yellow dress is but she is often to be seen around.

 

In cities, Tanzania

 

I tend to post pictures of the picturesque Africa...guilty. To show what is similar to Europe doesn't seem so attractive but then I decided to be fair and show everything modern and maybe boring. There is a lot more than the bush....And while doing that, I noticed the stunning fashion, the colors, the style, the various styles and that became interesting.

 

Stripes and polka dots in the KFC. This model could have been waiting in a Subway or Pizza Hut.

 

I did wait 10 min for this one. I had noticed the new buses had the same ad as the building...Those buses hav their own fast lanes in Dar.

 

 

The modern bus stands are located between the 2 bus lanes. So while I drive I get this kind of view, like a catwalk. Can you see my reflection in the yellow pattern?

Dar and a few of its many skyscrapers and large highways.

 

A coupla fashionistas again.

"Yo Bro whassup?". Those have been here for a while. Big hit in the local music industry.

Poor framing, sorry but look at the girl on the right side. Does she know these ripped jean's have been around for 50 years?

Also the rainbow shoes? That is where I feel very old...Sometimes I only notice extra details when I start the editing.

 

Aerial photography, Tanzania

 

Over the Rufii river. That was my lucky day, an elephant crossing is quite a rare occurrence across such a wide river.

 

 

The Indian ocean, rarely disappointing especially at low tide over reefs and mangroves.

 

 

The Nyerere bridge in Dar es Salaam.

 

 

The Mkapa bridge across the Rufiji river.

 

And a bit further here is the Rufiji delta at low tide reaching the Indian ocean.

 

A few pictures of the saltey lake Eyasi

 

 

 

 

 

on the road, Tanzania

 

Some areas in Tanzania will see many girls or women on bicycles. Others, none.

 

 

 

A bit of nostalgi...my old dirt bike.

 

Architecture and mix of style and colors can be interesting...

 

The smart display.

Common scene in many bus stops or crossroads...some areas are simply annoying.

 

 

 

Sometimes a guy sits in a sofa and enjoys a VIP ride.

 

Rural transport, Tanzania

 

 

So I finally reached Uganda 10 days after I drove from Dar es Salaam. The drive itself is quite uneventful. The Corona factor was the issue. 3 days wasted in Mwanza for a test that was finally not accepted in Uganda. Is it about money extortion? Nowhere was it specified on any official website...so 2 more days wasted in a lousy border post, Mutukula, west of lake Victoria. There are some parks and reserves wedged between the lake and Rwanda, Tanzanian side but completely off the main parks in Tanzania. And so not many tourists seem to go there apparently, even in normal times.

The trip is quite pleasant for the joy of driving to central and northwest Tanzania instead of flying over, for the great landscapes in some areas, and for the details that differ between regions, for the life on the side of the roads...

Today I chose some pictures about the transport theme.

I want to make it clear that I shot a lot of pictures while driving and focused on the funny vehicles and contraptions that usually impress a travelling "mzungu". I didn't focus too much on the many cars, some of luxury type, the many buses and trucks that roam the roads. But I insist the country is not to be limited on the pictures below.

 

"Proudly Tanzanian"...this rider is my champion on the road so far. In fact we should praise the 2nd woman sitting flimsily on the baskets at the very back of the bike. Yes you can notice another passenger wedged in the middle of the cargo. Hats off to the would-be engineers who patched and roped such a burden on the bike. The helmet was optional...

 

 

Safer but more colorful, this tuktuk here called "bajaj" for the most common brand.

In the Tabora region, red, yellow or blue tyres are common. Unseen in Dar or Dodoma. Cycling girls and women are also numerous in the region, as opposed to other regions.

 

 

In Mwanza...dala dala are also more colorful and decorated.

Bicycle taxis are more common in the center. Too hot or too hilly somewhere else? Notice the cushion.

I couldn't believe it when L actually saw one man riding such an assembly. I thought the thing was meant to be pushed.

But here we go. Amazing.

 

Another case of a proud Tanzanian man. Such a painting is rare though.

Not too heavy I suppose but a bit unstable?

Street photography in Mwanza, Tanzania

 

 

So I drove from Dar es Salaam to Kampala, starting last week. To enter Uganda one needs a Covid test valid for 72h, which was a bit of a mission to obtain in Mwanza, the closest point to the Ugandan border. Luckily the test starts its 72h on the testing day, not collecting day. Sadly I discovered at the border that it was useless since Uganda doesn't recognise the Tanzanian results... but that is for another day.

In the meantime I did my best to enjoy Mwanza and street photography being one of my hobbies...

 

This stunning lady was the highlight of the day for that hobby matter.

 

 

 

 

It seems this complex hairdo is a novelty...lots of pins in there. I need to double check with friend if this style is the next rage. I wonder if she passes a metal detector without raising alarm.

 

 

The lucky railing...

 

I love the helmet situation... 

 

 

 

B/W portraits on films, in the bush, Tanzania

 

Sieving some analog black and white through my archives...before digital times. it had its perks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Masai portraits, Tanzania

 

when I was privileged to work in some remote areas in Tanzania...

 

Here is a Masai boy who has just been circumsized, this new status while healing leads him soon to the next awaited one, warriorhood. The white mask and black cloak indicate this impure status.

And here is somehow the feminine version of the circumsized boy. Just instead of the warrior times, she'll be able to marry.

 

 

 

B/W film photography, Masai people.

 

 

One of my little privileges of living in Africa is having the time...well I am obviously still a bit obnoxious about it but I have some free time nevertheless and opportunities, like bringing vintage cameras to remote areas, here around lake Natron with a magnificent 1961 Rolleiflex allowing 12 shots per medium format film roll, very old fashioned.

Why...? Because l can? Because l couldn't afford such an expensive camera 20 or more years ago. And well it is just about driving a venerable car or listening to a LP...

 

Some portraits in the bush, Tanzania

 

 

A Masai boy showing his regalia. It means he has been recently circumsized and the next step is warriorhood.

 

 

Aerials over lake Natron, Tanzania, analog pictures

 

 

Lake Natron is a magnificent salt lake in the Rift valley.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shot on a vintage camera, a 1961 medium format Rolleiflex camera and chrome films.

Scenes in the bush, northern Tanzania

 

 

When there are no official public transport...

 

Hard work for this woman.

 

Notice how nobody stepped out to lighten the car...

 

 

This Masai lady uses an umbrella obviously not from the rain nowhere to be seen but from the scorching sun. Temperatures can come close to 50C at the bottom of the Rift valley.

 

A dust storm or dust devil passing by. Pretty harmless except for a slow and low flying plane. Very common near the equator.

 

 

Kids are the same everywhere!

 

Kids are the happiest in the rain season which only lasts a couple of months.

Random aerials, Tanzania

 

 

It took me a while and a picture to notice at the same time a reflection and a shadow of an aircraft. "They have eyes but don't see" says the latine proverb...

Here over lake Natron salt flats.

 

Flamingoes taking off. Lake natron again but on a normal looking area where the water reaches 3m deep.

 

2 young Masai boys. Their white make up and black cloaks indicate the boys were recently circumcized, paving the way to warriorhood.

 

I was lucky that day...what a scenery.

 

Lake Natron again, always a different coat.

Aerial photography, Tanzania

This big country is a marvel for a pastime like aerial aerography...

 

Delta on the northern part of lake Natron, where salts mix with fresh water from a river coming from Kenya, Southern Ewaso Ng'iro, Rift valley.

 

Low pass to greet a Maasai walker.

Minimal art?

 

One of those airstrips in Tanzania, along lake Natron, not too far from the volcano Lengai.

A non-perennial lake at the foot of mount Kitumbeine received unusual visitors.

I enjoy looking for various subjects of total different composure,colors and style like this psychedelic spiral of salt in lake Natron...

Versus this same lake natron, another day and welcoming flamingoes slightly disturbed by my approach to land nearby

Masai portraits in the Tanzanian outback

A selection of masai people in various stage of their lives...

 

The married man.

 

Young woman.

 

Young boy freshly circumsized and in the impure healing period. It shows by his black cloak, his feathers at an early stage around his head, and the white make up.

 

same period for these 2 teens but they belong to another clan and are more sober in display.

 

And for girls, the fashion also shows their new status, here are 2 girls from 2 different clans . The black cloaks and the white beads are the main markers.

 

 

Another married man. Where did he pick his vintage 70's hat?

 

A young girl who has not been through the ear extension process.

 

A married woman in full traditional gear, included the extended ears.

 

 

Indian ocean reefs, Pemba island, aerial photography

 

 

There are a few islands along Tanzania mainland. Zanzibar, Mafia and Pemba are the big ones. Here is Pemba and its stunning reefs. I have been flying over uglier places...

B/W portraits, Sonjo tribe, Tanzania

For a change here are some pictures from a lesser known tribe, the Sonjo from the Sonjo valley west of lake Natron. The women are not flamboyant like the Masai women, strange as they are neighbors. The young on the other end tend to copy the Masai warriors. It seems it is not out of awe but out of fear to be spotted in the bush and killed. Pretending can save one skin. These tribes have been enemies with the Masai for centuries...like most tribes which happen to cross paths and cows with the Masai.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aerials, Tanzania

 

 

 

Street photography in Stonetown, Zanzibar

 

 

 

The billy boys.

 

 

 

 

 

Colorful fashionista!

 

Kids are kids everywhere...

 

Kids and young men love to show off on the beach front. Some are real performers, whether in diving exercises or on solid ground.

 

Wildlife, Tanzania

 

 

A different way to see wildlife...a colleague on landing.

Arusha, street photography

 

 

 

Indian ocean, aerial photography

 

 

 

 

Stonetown, random pictures

 

 

 

 

B/W film Masai portraits, Tanzania

 

 

 

All shot recently with a Rolleiflex 3.5F, a medium format beauty camera from 1961. Sometimes it feels good to show the millennials that there was life of various sorts before digital era, before selfies....

 

Floods in Tanzania these days, aerial shots

 

Katasunga plain in Katavi NP but that is a normal recurrence in the rainy seasons, except we are not really in a rainy season. The weathermen blame a dipole in the Indian ocean for the last weeks or months. At least the buffaloes are happy and safe.

 

More seriously farmers are losing their harvests and people have died, 44 in the last months, life must be hell down there.

 

Some rivers disappear.

 

 

An airstrip that nearly becomes an island could be of no use...Mbuyu airstrip, Selous reserve.

 

The biggest river in Tanzania, the Rufiji, has overflowed too, Selous.

 

 

 

Aerials over the reefs, Indian ocean, Tanzania

 

 

 

 

Does that fisherman realise the art patterns he is fishing over?

 

Quite psychedelic, isn't it?

The river across the river.

 

 

Bush portraits in Tanzania

One of my jobs in northern Tanzania allowed me to meddle in the very remote areas where foreign visitors or workers were rare, like these pictures around lake Natron or Sonjo valley many eyars ago. I gave my models, usually Maasai but along Sonjo a lesser know tribe, proper prints never money. I didn't want to spoil the game.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Street pictures in Arusha, Tanzania

 

 

Those carts are still very common, this one particularly bulky. A stripped or a huge sofa can fit too!

 

Street vendors, everywhere, borderline annoying...

Another common scenery, women carrying about everything on their head.

 

 

 

 

Helmets ....baby steps!

 

 

Heavy rains in Tanzania, aerials

 

 

 

 

The great Ruaha river here flooded.

 

This section of the great Ruaha was nearly dry a few weeks ago, near Msembe airstrip.

 

Rufiji river in the Selous, the usual sandbanks are gone.

 

 

Mdonya river near Msembe, usually dry...

 

 

Fields in Rufiji delta.

 

Rufiji river near Mtemere airstrip.

 

This southern part of the Rufiji is most often dry...

 

 

 

Street photography in Stonetown, Zanzibar

 

 

Fashion gets interesting in Stonetown...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aerials of lake Natron, Tanzania

A stunnig salt lake in the Rift valley, northern Tanzania. It used to be said most inhospitable yet it is opening to tourism. Let's not open the debate but I feel privileged I usd to visit and overfly this place for many years when visitors were rare.

 

Because the lake is shallow, a little or big rain and a variable wind will give a new coat on a regular basis. This explains why in the 6 years l flew there a coupla times a month l never got bored!

 

 

This red pattern tends to be the most common one.

 

Ph is over 10, wildlife in the lake is limited to flamingoes but on the outskirt there is a bit of normal life, including fish and some mammals.

 

 

 

This zebra and birds are keeping their feet safe on a river delta.

 

Some days, it looks like the lake is mourning...

 

Caught in the dust.

 

 

Random pictures, Tanzania

 

 

 

 

One of my previous jobs, pilot at Flying Medical Service. Real bush flying as this airstrip implies.

 

 

Technology discrepancies...

 

Fishermen casings around Pemba islands.

 

Waving at friends... I will never forget these experiences in such balloons. Here in Ruaha NP.

 

 

Not a car from the company I fly for! we meet interesting dodgy companies out there...

 

One of the ferries between Zanzibar and the mainland.

 

Many rivers flow in Tanzania, here is the Luwego.

 

A young woman in Zanzibar.

Different cultures and religions...

A young girl in the bush.

 

Portraits in the Tanzanian bush.

 

 

 

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Stonetown, Zanzibar, street photography

 

Stonetown can be quite vibrant, sometimes too much when the hawkers and other "superglue" get in the way. "Superglue" seems to become a slightly derogatory word in East Africa that doesn't need explanations.

 

 

Not fair, as often, guys dress pretty much the way they like in the heat...

 

As said before black clad clothes are meeting colorful rivals.

 

 

 

A mainland tourist?

 

 

There is always a bunch of active youngsters showing off at Forodhani garden. They have sadly just lost a great diving spot for the benefit of more tourist junk sellers. There are already a zillion around who are misguided into thinking tourists come to Zanzibar to buy their goodies....shame on the authorities for spoiling these guys' playground and a great vista too.

 

 

Tanzania, people in the bush, B/W analog pictures.

These pictures come from my archives, around 2000, northern Tanzania, but I still use a few analog cameras nowadays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Birds in Tanzania, feeding d'Arnaud's barbet.

 

 

When one spends so many days in various camps or lodges one might as well develop a liking for birds. 1388 species in east Africa, 900 in Tanzania...birding activity can keep someone busy.

With the rains there has been a renewed activity, for instance in our Ruaha River Lodge, Ruaha national park. One of those many days meandering between the hills, nose up, binoculars and big lens handy, I spotted this d'Arnaud's barbet. I had initially thought he would eat its "olive" on the spot but no, it landed next to a narrow deep hole and climbed it down.

 

It reappeared quickly, see the tail over the hole, flew off and soon after it was back... this time with a big praying mantis in its beak. Quite a feat.

 

...this time with a big praying mantis in its beak. Quite a feat.

Back to that hole, again it climbed it down instead of dropping the prize.

 

 

Eyeing me briefly, I was standing in the shade of a tree.

 

 

Sadly I missed the take off picture... Quite a bright colorful bird nevertheless

B/W portraits, Tanzanian bush

 

 

Young Masai mother and a traditional cheek scar. She will keep her hair uncut till the baby has officially been named during a proper ceremony.

 

This woman wanted to wait to wait while getting prepped up for the pictures.

 

Sonjo woman using an umbrella to protect from the scorching sun in the Rift valley.

 

 

Some masai women in full regalia.

 

(Picture shot at 12am in natural light but with a +3 stop correction while the model stood under the aircraft wing)

 

 

 

Fishing activity near Bagamoyo, Indian ocean